With its 12th edition, the most famous and loved Mercatino di Natale (Christmas Street Market) in Italy invites participants to enjoy the magic of a traditional, mid-European Christmas, with Sachertorte, South Tyrolean gastronomic specialities and Christmas carols performed by choirs in folkloristic costumes. When the bells of the Bolzano Duomo tower strike seven, the Bolzano people love to meet at the Christkindlmarkt, the local Christmas street market, to warm themselves with a mug of vin brule‘ (mulled wine) together with a couple of Krapfen (doughnuts), or a warm chocolate drink accompanied by a tasty slice of Sachertorte fresh from Vienna.

People like to compare notes about Christmas presents to be made or places to see during the holidays, to wish each other Happy Christmas or simply to breathe in the atmosphere full of so many different scents and Christmas melodies, performed by choirs and ensembles in folkloristic costumes, coming from smaller towns in the neighbourhood. Christmas in Alto Adige is a Christmas spent in the mountains. In this Southern alpine area people have kept up usages, customs and traditional feasts that have developed over the centuries. When meadows and fields are covered by an immaculate blanket of snow, a quiet and peaceful period creeps down on the Alto Adige farmsteads. People meet up in the Stubes with their walls usually panelled in wood, where typical masonry stoves spread pleasant warmth and in the air you can perceive a subtle smell of cinnamon and baked apples. Just like nature, peasants also recover their strength, preparing for the new year to come.
Having always been at the crossroads between North and South, Bolzano is a town where you can perceive the influence of mid-European culture in architecture, art and lifestyle. The Alto Adige regional capital, which has recently come into the limelight because of a referendum to decide on the name of a square which recalls the fascist period (native Italian speaking electors voted against the proposal to have the name of the square changed from Piazza della Vittoria to Piazza della Pace) likes to display its role as a town acting as a bridge between different cultures. The Roncolo Castle has hosted an exhibition from Taranto, devoted to Magna Graecia, and the seven bridges in town have been converted into seven “Artist’s Bridges”, works of art designed to inspire, amuse or lead to reflection.

Once again this year, which is the 12th year since its first edition opening on 29 November 1991, the Bolzano Christmas Market is attracting a great number of visitors, among whom, as usual, many many children. The warm lights radiating from the lanterns, the crib, the fir-trees full of lights, the smell of cakes, the crowns made in pine branches, the horse-drawn carriages in the old town centre and the Christmas carols create a magic atmosphere that warms people’s hearts and takes them into their world of dreams and childhood memories. Somewhat nostalgic memories of four weeks of exciting expectation, awaiting the most magic event in the year. Memories that have gradually faded over the years, overcome by the gift and consumerism syndrome. But when you watch children and their dreamy eyes, full of the same excitement and expectation, you realise that the magic is still there, despite the excesses of advertising and the shopping obsession. Here, up to 24 December, over 80 exhibitors offer giftware, decorations for Christmas trees, wood carvings, glass and ceramic ware, scented candles, fabrics, items of clothing and gastronomic specialities; all these items are rigorously locally manufactured products. The symbols of the Christmas market are also produced locally: these are small slightly kitschy angels with plump faces, striking up silent heavenly music.

On the huge fir tree facing the Duomo, hundreds of lights shine, with gift-wrapped parcels of Lebkuchen and Zelten hearts hanging from the branches: these are typical Christmas specialities produced in the region. Zelten once used to be exclusively made on 21 December, on the eve of St. Thomas’ day. Tradition had it that young men set out towards their sweetheart’s home carrying a Zelten under their arm. This “night-time transport”, besides being a Christmas present, was an explicit declaration of love, culminating with the cutting of the cake on the Twelfth Day. The most valiant rival of the Zelten is the Italian panettone. This domed cake full of fruit is another ancient symbol of fertility. The Christmas Market winds around small squares and along narrow streets in the town centre.

Facing some of the Gasthaeuser, small refreshment stalls have been placed, serving the usual warm aromatic wine and other drinks. You will also find stalls displaying articles from all over the world, ranging from Peruvian sweaters to Celtic flutes, to “alternative” beauty articles and antiques.

The shops in town are also very busy, since they stay open on Sundays throughout the advent, the period preceding Christmas. Besides the Bolzano one, four more Christmas markets have been organised in Merano, Bressanone, Brunico and Vipiteno. Each one of these conveys a distinguished Christmas atmosphere with its own unique style. In Merano, where the market is situated along the Passirio, the possibility of taking long walks along promenades and paths is an invitation to relax and rest and contributes to the charms of this health resort. In Bressanone the inspiring theme is that of South Tyrolean art, history and rural tradition, with a display of Christmas period costumes. Vipiteno wishes to recall the times when mines represented the town’s chief source of work, whereas Brunico has devoted the Christmas street market to handicrafts. A lot has been written about the reasons for the success of this Christmas event.

The reason probably lies in the fact that the collective imagination has been successfully stimulated in leading us to focus on the Christmas we have all always dreamt of. Whereas in many towns there are only a few Christmas trees and some additional lights to recall the greatest Christian feast, here the atmosphere of a little winter tale has been created. It is an atmosphere whereby the desire to experience the pleasures of gastronomic delicacies and shopping, blends with solemn meditation breaks during the Christmas concerts held in the squares and in the churches, which inwardly enrich those who heartily take part in this ancient rite of thanksgiving and offering gifts. (Translated by interpres sas)